Rhode Island Ramblings: Mansions, Masts, and a Mystery Trail
Rolling into Portsmouth, Rhode Island, we were absolutely buzzing with excitement, and the coastal charm did not disappoint. Getting our 40-foot 5th-wheel settled into a fantastic, spacious site at the Newport RV Park was the perfect start to our New England adventure.
The Famous Cliff Walk: Ocean Views and High Hedges
On our very first day out, we tackled the much-talked-about Cliff Walk. Clocking in at a solid seven miles, it offers a stunning juxtaposition: roaring blue ocean waters on your right and the backyards of Newport’s legendary gilded mansions on your left.
Well, glimpses of their backyards, anyway.
During much of the walk, these historic estates are heavily guarded by towering, meticulously manicured shrubbery, leaving mere mortals little chance to peek at the ornate architecture. Thankfully, Mitch came prepared. Wielding his camera on an extendable pole, he managed to capture a few over-the-hedge shots of the hidden grandeur.
A Walker’s Thought: As we strolled, I couldn’t help but wonder: whose idea was it to put a public walkway right against the property lines of folks seeking ultimate privacy? I’m fairly certain none of the original owners voted to have thousands of tourists trekking through their backyards—hence the fortress of foliage.
My favorite architectural workaround? Two homeowners who refused to sacrifice their sweeping ocean views simply built tunnels for the Cliff Walk visitors to pass under, allowing their sprawling lawns to continue uninterrupted right to the cliff’s edge. You have to applaud the ingenuity!
Wandering the Wharfs
After wrapping up our seven-mile trek, we kept the momentum going and walked into town. We grabbed a much-needed bite for lunch before wandering down to Banister’s Wharf and Bowen’s Wharf.
The energy down by the water was infectious. The wharfs were bustling with visitors popping in and out of boutique shops, enjoying fresh seafood, and lining up for the various harbor tours. Naturally, the sight of all those masts swaying in the harbor caught our attention. We stopped to inquire about a sailboat tour and ended up booking a spot for the very next day—Mitch is already counting down the hours!
The Case of the Disappearing Bike Trail
Looking to keep the outdoor adventures rolling, we decided to take the bikes out. Mitch had done some research and found a local path touting a lovely ten-mile route. We loaded the bikes into the truck, drove to the trailhead, and set off.
The path was idyllic—beautifully tree-lined with intermittent, sparkling views of the water. We were thoroughly enjoying our afternoon ride when, out of nowhere, the pavement simply ended. We hit the brakes, totally confused, as our odometers only read three miles.
Spotting a local walking nearby, we flagged him down to ask if we had missed a turnoff or a connecting path. He just laughed and shook his head: Nope, this is the end.
So, our epic ten-mile cycling adventure was cut somewhat short. But as any seasoned traveler knows, you just have to roll with the punches. We packed the bikes back up, shrugged it off, and did the next best thing: a stop for lunch.
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